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Stylish Home Efficiency

Natural Home

Cap drapes with a closed-top cornice to improve window insulation.

There are numerous ways to increase the energy efficiency of a house, and some choices happen during construction. However, energy efficiency in drafty older homes and cheaply constructed newer houses may be increased. A few décor changes can help create spaces that are not only energy efficient but also beautiful.

Ideally, warm air stays inside your house in winter and outside in summer. The goal is to be in control of this energy flow. Think of your walls and floors as big, semipermeable surfaces and your windows as gaping holes. The decorative materials you choose can support or offset their existing insulating and heat-resistant qualities.

Windows

On average, 25 percent of warm or cool air in the home is lost through the windows. It’s important to have efficient windows but the window treatments you choose can drastically improve their performance.

Sunlight streaming through windows brings heat inside. To block the sun, reflective light-colored blinds are one option. If you prefer dark colors, look for products backed with light colors or a thin layer of aluminum to reflect the sun’s rays. Blackout shades or drapery liners are also effective options for reducing solar heat. Some window treatments are rated with a summer shading coefficient, which measures effectiveness in preventing solar heat from entering the house and low numbers are best.

Cooler climates and seasons present opposite challenges. Honeycomb shades are one method of retaining heat. Air pockets in their layered-fabric construction trap interior air and prevent it from escaping through windows and can add 2.0 to 4.8 R-value to windows.

To block out visible sunlight, insulating shades are the best solution. They consist of three to five quilted layers of materials that insulate, act as a radiant barrier, and prevent condensation. To be effective, insulating shades must be sealed against the window frame with magnetic or grooved tracks when closed. These shades provide R-values up to 4.9.

Backing fabric drapes with durable cotton felt or suede will improve performance. If you install drapes without the addition of a liner or insulating shade, hang them with a closed-top cornice, choose a tight weave, and make sure there’s plenty of center overlap that touches the sill or floor. If the top or bottom is open, closing the drapes will actually make the room colder by creating a wind tunnel where warm air is cooled against the window and then passed through the bottom into the room.

Lights

Seventy-three percent of energy efficiency in a home is related to lighting. These tips may help maximize lighting options.

Place lamps in corners so they can reflect off two walls resulting in more light.

Insulate recessed ceiling lights to avoid losing heat through fixtures.

Light-colored shades are best; dark shades hold the light in.

Halogens are poor choices for torchiere fixtures. Every ten watts of power consumed by a halogen torchiere bulb yields nine watts of heat and one watt of visible light. Compact fluorescent torchieres use 70 watts per hour compared to 300 watts per hour for halogen. Each bulb costs between $40 and $100, which you’ll recoup in two years from reduced energy bills.

Linear fluorescent bulbs are a good choice for bathrooms, kitchens, or garages because one fixture will light a large area.

If you want to keep incandescent bulbs in some fixtures, install dimming controls and save energy.

Floors and Walls

A huge problem with floors and walls is conductive heat loss and gain, but you can minimize this effect. Wool carpet with a thick pad is an effective insulator that prevents heat loss in the winter and gain in the summer. Area rugs over bare floors provide seasonal flexibility and can be replaced with cool grass mats and rugs in hot weather or removed altogether. Also consider cork and linoleum tiles, which are natural insulators.

If you have large southern or southeastern windows, consider using tile, stained or patterned concrete, or brick flooring directly in front of those windows as thermal mass. It will absorb the sun’s heat during the day and release it in the evenings. Light-colored paint on the ceiling and walls will reflect light down to the thermal mass.

Drafty exterior walls can benefit from additional covering. Cork tiles, paper-backed wallpaper, fabric, fiber, and paper wall coverings are earth-friendly materials that provide better insulation than paint. Look for foil-backed wallpapers that reflect heat back into the room and prevent it from conducting through the walls. Functional art textiles,tapestries and quilts placed on exterior walls will beautify and insulate the space.

Furniture

Furnishings should be chosen with the same care given the walls and floor. Shiny, polished colors and surfaces will reflect heat back to the walls or floors where it can be stored efficiently. Overstuffed, high-backed furniture is an age-old trick for shelter from drafts and skirted furniture is also an option for drafty rooms.

Furniture arrangement can be seasonal as well. Move furniture close to heat sources in winter and away from direct sunlight in summer. Space furniture farther apart in summer to promote ventilation. Light, openstyle furniture such as wicker can serve the warmest rooms because this type of material doesn’t retain heat. Allow air to circulate by maintaining air spaces under furniture. Don’t cover vents or block heat from radiators and make sure there’s room for warm air to circulate.

Large pieces of furniture such as bookshelves, armoires, and entertainment centers can double as insulation for outside, non-mass walls. Or place heavy, dark pieces near a window where they will act as thermal mass, absorbing and releasing the sun’s heat.

Include a few functional accessories that improve energy flow. Folding screens can block drafts and shield windows on cold, windy, or overcast days. Ceiling fans save up to 40 percent on summer energy bills and up to 10 percent in winter. Set fans at reverse on low speed in winter—this action pushes trapped heat near the ceiling down to where you can feel it.

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